The Islander: Dining ... 'perfection on a plate' at Old Marco Pub & Restaurant

Friday, April 4, 2003

By JENINE C. OUILLETTE, Special to the Islander

Occasionally, I'm unexpectedly presented with the opportunity to enjoy a wonderful meal. I say unexpected opportunity because it was a last minute decision to call the Old Marco Pub & Restaurant for a dinner reservation that evening. Surprise. At the height of season, I got my 5:30 p.m. reservation, but didn't find out it was the last one available for that evening until my guest and I were leaving the restaurant.

I overheard Susan, the hostess and co-owner, remark that they had to turn away lots of people. Regular readers will please dispense with any "tsk, tsks" regarding yours truly's advice about last-minute reservations.

If I don't mention it again, let me simply say that my friend and I enjoyed a delightful evening and a superb meal that featured the best Grilled Filet Mignon I've ever eaten in Marco Island restaurants. Yes, I do mean that. Furthermore, I need to repeat that it's wise to heed your server's advice when you're undecided about your main course, or any course for that matter. It stands to reason that your server wants you to be satisfied with your meal so that you'll return and bring your friends. Enough said, and now on to the first course and more.

The Old Marco Pub's chef, Ettore Mancini, specializes in fine Italian cuisine and I wish I could list every extensive selection of the menu's offerings in Appetizers, Soup, Fish and Seafood, More Fish and Seafood, Veal, Beef, and last but not least, Eggplant Specialties.

I was truly seduced by the incredible layers of flavor in the chef's mini version of Eggplant Rollatini in our Hot Antipasto Sampler platter (for two at $10.95 and four at $16.95) which also included succulent and tender Gulf Shrimp, Clams Casino and Clams Oreganato. Also superb were the Stuffed Mushrooms heaped high with real crabmeat, judiciously seasoned and containing the barest amount of binder, then topped with lovely lobster sauce.

More compliments will be forthcoming on the same wonderful crab melange that enhanced the Baked Stuffed Grouper. But before I expand on main courses, I must praise the soup of the day, Lobster Bisque. It was simply wonderful, a velvety consistency balanced with a toothsome helping of lobster morsels. In addition, I need to tell you that the service and ambiance equally rated an A-plus.

Ahh, our main courses or entrees if you prefer, were, may I say, "perfection on a plate" for both the Grilled Filet Mignon and the Baked Stuffed Grouper. Both were also recommended by our friendly and efficient server, Tommy. "You'll like this," he promised and kept his word. Let's also say "Ole" to Miguel, the very efficient gentlemanly assistant who kept our iced tea glasses filled and unobtrusively whisked away empty plates and then some. Service makes the meal, I've always said, especially if you're dining in a full house packed with happy diners that at times could be mistaken for a "civilized zoo". But it was fun to see and hear everyone obviously having a great time and it didn't detract a whit from our appreciation of the food.

Specifically, I really appreciated the deliciously beefy taste of my prime filet mignon, which still lingers on my palate. Ditto for the generous cut of my steak — over an inch thick — as well as its flavorful charred crust and the pink, juicy and tender meat within. It was so tender I could have sliced it with my dinner knife rather than the steak knife presented with the dish.

I'd be remiss if I didn't tell you that I totally agreed with my dinner guest's equally flattering opinions of her Baked Stuffed Grouper after she presented me with a generous morsel on an errant bread and butter plate. Uncharacteristically greedy, I was reluctant to be as generous about sharing my superb steak — but I did.

Now, here's an excellent opportunity to relay that first courses are served with a garden salad, warm rolls and pasta or baked potato — savory, herbed and buttered, and roasted new potatoes also were available that evening — and vegetables served with entrees as noted on the menu. We certainly agreed the roast potatoes and the creamy, piquant blue cheese dressing on the salads nicely complemented both entrees. Of course, there's a full bar service and an excellent wine list in addition to the usual hot, cold and fizzy liquid beverages.

After such a satisfying meal it was difficult to contemplate the evening's dessert menu. We really tried and were delighted to see two exceptional versions of "Tartufo" an elegantly presented frozen confection of ice cream encased in a rich chocolate shell that's gilded with a chocolate or fruit sauce. There was a chocolate torte and brownie creation, the ever-present Tiramisu, and that traditional Italian triple treat, Spumoni, which I ordered and blissfully enjoyed. Also sinfully sweet was my guest's Cappuccino Tartufo covered in dense, dark chocolate sauce punctuated with pristine puffs of whipped cream. Perfecto!

Jenine C. Ouillette is a retired features editor of the Key West Citizen, and a former food writer and restaurant reviewer for The Citizen and Solares Hill Newspaper, as well as other publications in the Keys and mainland Flori